A Brief History of the Tradition
Let's begin with a mini history lesson. As early as 3000 BC, the Sumerians in Mesopotamia preserved cooked meats and fish using sesame oil and salt. Later, around 900 BC, the Greeks began developing salt gardens, which provided the salt used for drying and smoking fish. By 200 BC, the Romans had adopted salt preservation techniques from the Greeks and expanded its use to other meats, including pork.
This brings us back to the Iberian Peninsula southern Spain and parts of Portugal which the Romans conquered in 218 BC. Along with their rule, they brought their culture, people, and, of course, their knowledge of food preservation.
Now for a brief biological explanation of why curing meat even works. Essentially, it's about killing pathogens through osmosis the movement of water through a semi-permeable membrane from a low solute concentration to a high one. Due to the high concentration of salt outside the pathogen's cell membrane, water moves out of the cell, following the concentration gradient. This dehydration halts the pathogen's metabolism:
Enzymes stop working, as they rely on a watery environment for proper interaction with substrates.
Chemical reactions cease, as water acts as a solvent.
The cell loses its turgidity (firmness), impairing its structure and function.
In short, salt-curing deprives pathogens of the water they need to survive, effectively preserving the meat for months, if not years. Hopefully, you got the gist…
Historically, this process was vital for ensuring a secure food supply for soldiers and citizens during times of scarcity. The ability to store meat for long periods especially during harsh winters like those experienced during Roman campaigns in Germany and Britain was revolutionary. This same principle underpins other preservation techniques such as pickling, freezing, smoking, and canning.
Fun fact! Christopher Columbus reached the Americas with the help of Iberian cured pork.
Over time, what began as a survival tactic evolved into a craft. As daily survival became less urgent and quality of life improved, people began refining their techniques, building better facilities, and developing a deeper appreciation for food as a cultural cornerstone something that brought families and communities together.
Eventually, regions like Italy (with prosciutto), Spain (with jamón), and Portugal (with presunto) began using their local ingredients and climates to shape their own variations of cured meats, branching out into distinct culinary traditions.
I'll end this section with a thoughtful quote from psychologist Dr. Ara Norenzayan:
"There is more to eating than survival. Eating and drinking are a medium through which we gather, socialize, and create bonds. We celebrate, commemorate, tend to one another, and enact our rituals through food."